Skimming is the process by which a thin layer of plaster is applied to a wall or ceiling to provide a smooth surface. Often referred to as board finish, the amount need for a particular job can be calculated based on using 10kg to every 5 sq meters. This assumes plaster is applied to a thickness of approximately 3mm. It’s worth noting that plaster should be stored in a dry place, but it does have a minimum shelf life, so bulk buying and storage might not be such a good idea unless you are using it in large and frequent amounts.

As you set about your next plastering job it’s well worth cleaning the plasterboards first. Dust and dirt will create problems so a little time spent in preparation will pay dividends later. If at all possible empty the room or at the very least cover anything of value. Not only do you want to avoid damage to furniture etc, but you also want to be able to move around the room unimpeded, particularly if you’re working on a ceiling which means you need the whole floor space to move around in.

When it comes to corners, they need to be properly prepared. External corners are best trimmed with angle beads. Angle beads are galvanized strips, which are simply nailed, with galvanised nails, to the boards. So long as you’ve taken time to square them up with a spirit level, the result is a nice sharp cover. The angle beads can be cut with a small hacksaw or tin snips but it’s a good idea to use protective gloves, as the edges can be fairly sharp.

Plaster should be mixed using equal amounts of plaster to water, taking time to mix until a smooth consistency is achieved. A hand whisk can be helpful here. Once the plaster is ready wet the spot board and empty the plaster onto it. A spot board by the way, is just a board of around a meter sq; useful for catching the plaster as you work.

A small quantity of plaster should be loaded onto the hawk. Depending on your preference (right or left handed) hold at around chest height and push a measured amount of plaster onto the surface with the float. It takes practice, but you are aiming for a repetitive action which is smooth and fluid. For walls it’s best to work up from the floor spreading a thin layer and then back down again from the ceiling to smooth out the plaster. A second coat can be applied as the first begin to dry a little. This coat should fill in any ridges. A clean float should be used to smooth the whole job. As the plaster starts to harden, again the float can be used as if to polish the surface. Water can be applied with a brush to help when polishing with the float and naturally fill out the smallest of holes.

Asbestos In The Workplace – We Reveal The Level Of Danger That …

Asbestos was used in the construction of a great many building materials, from ceiling tiles to plasterboard substitute, for this reason it can be found just about anywhere. Asbestos<…   Read more…

Can anyone tell me when plasterboard became commonly used in the UK?

We are trying to establish the likelyhood of a ceiling being asbestos whilst we wait the proper checks. Ceilings made of board and put up in the 1950’s. Any help, or directions to look in w…   Read more…

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asbestos tile manufacturing manufacture of textiles, asbestos the trades of shipbuilding insulation work in the construction of. Electricians plasterers pipe fitters railroad workers bui…   Read more…

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If you’ve ever tried to fit plasterboard then you will know that one of the most difficult parts is when you have to make the cuts around sockets and things. This is where it all goes wrong for many people and they are left with huge big holes that later become a nightmare to fill and make good.

Wouldn’t it be nice if just for once, you could make one cut and have it fit perfectly first time. Well now you can because I promise you it’s such a doodle when you know how.

I’m about to give you a little tip that will save all the rigmarole and make the job a so much easier. All you need to do is hold your piece of plasterboard up to the wall in the place that you want to put it, then where your sockets, or rather back boxes are (these are the metal boxes that the plastic socket cover with the plug fittings screws into), give the board a good tap and you will make an mark on the back of the plasterboard where the cut needs to be. Simply cut it out with a sharp blade and when you fit the plasterboard permanently in place, you should find that it fits accurately around the socket.

Another way of doing this is also leading the front of the back box around the edges with a pencil before pressing the board up it to get the impression in the right place. Believe it or not, I’ve even known people to mark the socket with ‘tomato sauce’ to make the impression onto the board. Now tomato sauce maybe taking matters a little bit far, but I guess the idea here is to just get that impression on the plasterboard where the precise cut needs to be.

Next time you’re taking on a project where you need to fit plasterboard, be sure to try this simple but very effective and time saving method. Please always be cautious and careful when working around any electrical sockets. Where possible, you should always isolate the sockets power supply to ensure complete safety. If in doubt, consult a qualified electrician to do this for you.

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What sort of fixings should I use on plasterboard? My walls plasterboard with a cavity behind before the brickwork, and I want to mount my rear.   Read more…

Sorting the Shower Screen (and the curtain pole, towel rail, loo …

Unfortunately we don’t live in an ideal world, but there are a number of fixings specially designed for fixing to surfaces such as plasterboard, of various strength and qualit…   Read more…

Can a stud wall take 40kgs? – AVForums.com

I would obviously mount the back plate onto the studs again, but this time I would used some different fixings. My plan is to secure the plate to the plasterboard using some standard …   Read more…

Technorati Tags: plasterboard sizes

The plasterboard in many Australian homes harbours imperfections that can cause major problems for homeowners down the line. That’s why it’s so vital to have a professional inspect the premises before signing a contract to buy a home.

The Basics Of Plasterboard -

Plasterboard is used in a variety of buildings, including homes, shops, offices, factories, schools and many other places. During construction, it is used as a type of internal lining board to help create strong, smooth, uniform looking walls and ceilings. Generally builders prefer using plasterboards in houses as its surface can be easily decorated using either paint or wallpaper. Most houses use plasterboard to some degree; unfortunately, this material can also harbour many unpleasant problems. If you’re buying a new home and are unsure of whether or not plasterboard is involved – and whether or not the plasterboard that’s there is of sound quality – you need the experts to take a look.

The Problem With Plasterboard -

Cracks are one of the biggest problems that occur with plasterboard. When cracks appear in plasterboard, they typically occur wherever there is a change in direction; hallways and ceilings in particular are common areas for cracks in plasterboard. Gypsum wallboard is one of the most commonly used varieties of plasterboard, and changes in temperature and/or moisture can cause stress and movement within it. That stress and movement can cause cracks; over time, those cracks can create a major headache for homeowners and can precipitate massive repairs.

Preventing Cracking -

Control joints are the preferred method for preventing cracking in plasterboard and gypsum wallboard. When used properly – and spaced apart appropriately, at approximately 9 metres from floor to ceiling – control joints can prevent cracks and plasterboard doesn’t pose a major problem. However, many houses weren’t built properly in the first place; sometimes, do-it-yourselfers fail to use control joints the right way, and plasterboard is compromised. A skilled building inspector can look at the walls and ceilings in any house and determine whether they have been put together properly. In addition to looking for existing cracks, then, an experienced inspector can look for the warning signs of trouble down the road and can help you avoid major headaches and expense later.

Revenue Accountant — Boral Plasterboard Philippines, Inc …

This role reporting directly to the Finance Manager, is accountable for creation and issuance of invoices and credit memos, updating customer files and reporting of revenues. Key tasks include billing…   Read more…

John Kennedy reaches the end of the road – Celtic Quick News

Thanks to Dave,Scott,(Nu-Ceil Services, Boral Plasterboard Perth)and to my brilliant workmate Jamie. Scot, Roz’s husband. By kano’s sister on November 15, 2009 4:20 PM. Have spoken to a…   Read more…

Gypsum and Anhydrite: Global Industry Markets and Outlook (10th …

… Production of phosphogypsum in Australia 65 7.4.4 Production of gypsum products in Australia 66 7.4.4.1 Boral Plasterboard Limited 67 7.4.4.2 CSR Gyproc 67 7.4.4.3 Lafarge 67 7.4.5 Exports …   Read more…

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Building methods are improving every year giving us better insulated buildings which in turn lead to lower energy costs. Sometimes it’s hard to see where we are making these improvements, but just compare a house that was built 40 years ago and compare it to a modern house built to the latest building regulations. One can see pretty quickly how much easier it is to heat a modern house and how much better a modern house will retain heat, why is this? The obvious and the main reason is that houses are now built with better insulation; new modern materials help retain heat in the building and therefore reduce energy costs. In combination with better insulation, new building methods have given us a more air tight structure. This is important because controlling the air circulation is just as important if not more important than insulation one’s house.

Think about it this way. Imagine a wall built to the highest possible standard in terms of installation, sound proofing and air tightness and in that wall we insert one window and one door. If you think about it you can begin to understand very quickly that once you interfere with a completely sealed wall there is a higher chance of air escaping and heat escaping. With this in mind it is hugely important how we install windows and doors in any building, making sure that the hold structure is of a uniform standard.

This is something that the building industry is only coming to terms with. There has been some resistance to introducing new recommended building regulations as they can increase the cost of the build, however as builders become familiar with new technologies and new building methods some of the costs can be absorbed by increase in the skill set of employees and becoming more efficient. No matter what the difficulties are it is important that the construction industry incorporates these new building methods in order to construct buildings to a higher standard and reduce our energy costs, improving our air tightness standards is a very efficient way to achieve this.

From the builders point of view extra care and attention needs to happen around all joins in a building. Joints are found around Windows, doors, corners, attics and wall plate level. Expanding foam can be used around Windows and doors and it also helps if these joints are taped giving them an all-around seal. Also there has been a move away from plastering especially in large apartment blocks this has been replaced by what’s referred to as tape jointing whereby plasterboard’s that have a groove joint are taped at each joint, sanded down and painted directly on to the plasterboard surface. Even though the plasterboard is of the recommended finish the joints don’t often last the test of time. Even though reinforced mesh is used with a sealant it can crack over time mainly because the sealant may not be applied uniformly. This can lead to leakage in the building.

As you can see while there is huge progress being made especially as I mentioned before when we compare a house built 40 years ago to the modern-day house, we still have a long way to go before we have synergy between the building authorities, contractors and suppliers of new building materials. One of the main drawbacks with introducing new building methods and new building materials is that it is often years before we can really determine if they work!

Can I Mount My Tv On A Plaster Board/False Wall – AVForums.com

Hi There My Question simmply is can i mount a large tv on a plaster board / false wall as i dont want to mount it then its simply break off. lol.   Read more…

WTF WAS THAT?: Boy Loses His Cool, Cries And Punches Wall Over …

Can’t believe some guys are macho’ing out about punching walls. The reason your hand went through it, is because you live in a US made hobo shack made of plaster board walls. The…   Read more…

Do I need noggings for a 3mtr plasterboard wall? – Renovate Forums

Hi guys! I am building a partition wall in my house. The wall will be 2800 long, and 2700 high. I will be using 64 mm Rondo metal stud (or similar.) and will be using 10 mm plasterboa…   Read more…

Technorati Tags: hole in plasterboard

PVA Bonding and Glue

PVA bonding is white in color and is usually supplied in large plastic containers; this is the same glue that we used as kids in school. PVA is often used when skimming over existing walls and it’s particularly useful when skimming over artex as it forms a water tight barrier and helps the plaster stick to the wall. Another benefit of PVA to plasterers is that it helps to prevent plaster from drying out too quickly. The problem with skimming over existing finishing plaster is that it soaks up water like a sponge and this makes the new plaster dry out straight away and start cracking. To overcome this problem PVA glue can be spread over the work surface first to slow the rate of water absorption and give the plaster much more time to work with the plaster once it’s on the wall.

Backing Plasters / Bonding Plasters

Backing plasters such as those called ‘browning’ or ‘bonding compound’ is usually used during building and renovation projects. Almost all newly built houses are dry lined with plasterboard rather than wet plastered using browning or bonding compound. This is because plasterboard possesses many different advantages over traditional backing plaster. Bonding plaster and particularly browning are what is know in the trade as ‘wet’ materials. If these finishes are used on walls it can take several months for them to dry out fully. Plastering a full wall with backing plaster is also a very skilled job and requires a skilled tradesman to carry it out properly. In comparison dry lining rooms with plasterboard can be done quickly and to acceptable standards by a competent DIY enthusiast. Browning plaster is a backing coat plaster; it is invariably a pink or grey colour. Browning is used on surfaces such as house bricks and breeze blocks, or building surfaces which are absorbent. Browing should be put on in quite thick layers of about 10mm. Browning usually takes around 2 hours to set. Bonding Compound is arguably better than browning. Bonding is usually best applied to non absorbent material such as hard faced bricks or treated surfaces that have been glued with PVA. Usually bonding is put on around 8mm in thickness. Bonding Compound usually takes around 2 hours to set.

Skimming / Finishing Plaster

Skimming plaster is some times put directly over either browning or bonding compound. But in todays building industry it is more commonly applied directly to plasterboard. There are multi finish versions of skimming plaster which are very popular as it is suitable for use on most internal surfaces. You can also get hold of plasterboard finish, as its name suggest, it is used for skimming over plasterboard and it not intended for use over bonding compound or browning. Skimming plaster is normally put on much more thinly and as a final coat. It is usually applied around 2mm thick.

One Coat Plaster

There are lots of different companies manufacturing one coat plaster. Such companies claim that this plaster will serve as a backing coat and finish coat all at the same time. Although allegedly these plasters are highly versatile, in our experience such plasters are best left alone. We believe that you are better off adopting the traditional backing coat / finishing coat approach.

Remember, as a general rule for all plasters – the drying time will depend on the ambient temperature of the room, finishing plaster needs to be polished with a trowel as soon as it has started to firm up to the touch. If you delay too long before trowelling it up the plaster will harden and then your only option is to sand down the walls!

Owner Builder Forum | Re: Installing 1300m2 of plasterboard

elchagie wrote: is this price for labor ? Sorry, no. It’s for supply only.   Read more…

Owner Builder Forum | Re: Installing 1300m2 of plasterboard

Also, do you think $5.5 m2 for walls and $6.23 for ceiling is a good price for gyprock?   Read more…

Owner Builder Forum | Re: Installing 1300m2 of plasterboard

gettingThere wrote: Totally worth getting a professional in if that’s the case. It would be a very gutsy decision to do it yourself. It is pretty hard to hide gyprock and there is some skill & tec…   Read more…

Technorati Tags: holes in plasterboard

The most important thing for all DIY tasks is a set of correct tools for plastering and plaster boarding. The vital and useful tools are a large flexible mixing bucket, a featheredge, a Plasterer’s Darby, a float and a hawk.

The bucket is essential for the mixing of plaster or dry wall adhesive. Take a bucket which is easy to clean, because clean tools are important if you want to do a plastering job. A featheredge can also be used as a Plasterers Darby and with it you can achieve straight plasterboard application.

Keep the plasterers float clean all the time. Go in for a stainless steel float, because the others rust if they are not looked after. The hawk is always used along with the float. The plaster is generally held on the hawk and then it is transferred to the wall or ceiling by using the float.

Mixing is a very important phase in a plastering job. With the help of a mixer drill the mixing plaster can be made easily, especially if the quantity is large. It is possible to do the mixing with a piece of wood as well, but the mixer will make it easier.

There are different types of plaster available, but basically there are two coats for each plastering job. First of all there is a backing coat which is browning or bonding plaster. Plasterboard is a better choice than backing plaster, especially if it is a DIY project. It is followed by the finishing plaster which is applied on top of the plasterboard. This is applied as a final coat.

It is important to remember that plaster is only suitable for internal use, when there is no damp. And the mixing is important, because the water has to be clean and cold and you should remember to add the plaster to the water and not the water to the plaster.

Plasterboard is the most common material used nowadays for finishing off internal walls and ceilings. It comes in various sizes and thicknesses and has many edge finishes. Use smaller sheets, though they are a bit expensive than the larger ones, but the larger ones become difficult to handle.

There are special tools to help you for cutting the plasterboard. If you want to use the direct bond method it is important to know the correct technique how to apply the plasterboard with that method. This method is often called the dot and dab method. Working with plasterboard for the ceiling is different than working for a wall.

Let us look at the final coat or the top coat of plaster. This is the most important coat and this coat of plaster is called a skim. Skimming requires practice, so go about it slowly and follow instructions carefully. Just follow certain basic rules like ensuring the smoothness of the surface, the cleanliness of your buckets and tools. Use two coats of finishing plaster instead of one and start off with a wall, which is a bit hidden in your house and gives you room to experiment.

There are some other jobs which need to be mentioned under DIY plastering. There are various types of plasters, and one of them is artexing. It is important to practice the artex patterns before experimenting on your wall. Take the easy patterns and learn also how to remove Artex or the textured patterns. Plaster moldings are often used for plastering jobs, but the fit should be right and it is better if it is done by professionals.

Class Action Lawsuit Against Chinese Drywall Endorsed by Federal Court

Claimants in the case allege Chinese drywall produced by Knauf Plasterboard (Tianjin) Company has led to problems such as home wiring corrosion and respiratory health issues. Thus far, a…   Read more…

PGS Real Estate | MLS | Attorney General Alerts Consumers to …

TALLAHASSEE, FL – November 23, 2009 – (RealEstateRama) — Attorney General Bill McCollum today issued a consumer advisory alerting homeowners whose homes contain allegedly defective Chinese dr…   Read more…

The Chinese Drywall Complaint Center Updates Its Info Warns …

The group says, last week in New Orleans, a federal judge made it possible for homeowners with a specific type of imported Chinese drywall called Knauf Plasterboard Tianjin, to potentia…   Read more…

Technorati Tags: tv on plasterboard

Building methods are improving every year giving us better insulated buildings which in turn lead to lower energy costs. Sometimes it’s hard to see where we are making these improvements, but just compare a house that was built 40 years ago and compare it to a modern house built to the latest building regulations. One can see pretty quickly how much easier it is to heat a modern house and how much better a modern house will retain heat, why is this? The obvious and the main reason is that houses are now built with better insulation; new modern materials help retain heat in the building and therefore reduce energy costs. In combination with better insulation, new building methods have given us a more air tight structure. This is important because controlling the air circulation is just as important if not more important than insulation one’s house.

Think about it this way. Imagine a wall built to the highest possible standard in terms of installation, sound proofing and air tightness and in that wall we insert one window and one door. If you think about it you can begin to understand very quickly that once you interfere with a completely sealed wall there is a higher chance of air escaping and heat escaping. With this in mind it is hugely important how we install windows and doors in any building, making sure that the hold structure is of a uniform standard.

This is something that the building industry is only coming to terms with. There has been some resistance to introducing new recommended building regulations as they can increase the cost of the build, however as builders become familiar with new technologies and new building methods some of the costs can be absorbed by increase in the skill set of employees and becoming more efficient. No matter what the difficulties are it is important that the construction industry incorporates these new building methods in order to construct buildings to a higher standard and reduce our energy costs, improving our air tightness standards is a very efficient way to achieve this.

From the builders point of view extra care and attention needs to happen around all joins in a building. Joints are found around Windows, doors, corners, attics and wall plate level. Expanding foam can be used around Windows and doors and it also helps if these joints are taped giving them an all-around seal. Also there has been a move away from plastering especially in large apartment blocks this has been replaced by what’s referred to as tape jointing whereby plasterboard’s that have a groove joint are taped at each joint, sanded down and painted directly on to the plasterboard surface. Even though the plasterboard is of the recommended finish the joints don’t often last the test of time. Even though reinforced mesh is used with a sealant it can crack over time mainly because the sealant may not be applied uniformly. This can lead to leakage in the building.

As you can see while there is huge progress being made especially as I mentioned before when we compare a house built 40 years ago to the modern-day house, we still have a long way to go before we have synergy between the building authorities, contractors and suppliers of new building materials. One of the main drawbacks with introducing new building methods and new building materials is that it is often years before we can really determine if they work!

Screwing plasterboard

I now need to install 12.5mm plasterboard onto the same wall, to level up with the aquapanel for tiling. I have plugged and screwed the Aquapanel using the Aquapanel screws. My question …   Read more…

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Fermacell 8 x 4’s Anyone used them??

My understanding is the tapered edged boards are specifically manufactured for the UK market to compete with plasterboard installation. CommentAuthorJulian; CommentTimeOct 9th 2009. Good post P…   Read more…

Technorati Tags: knauf tianjin plasterboard

If you are attempting to create a soundproof ceiling, your approach to the task will depend on whether you are working in a single story building, with no rooms above the ceiling on which you are working, or on an upstairs room. If you are working on a ceiling with a room above it, you can consider creating a soundproof ceiling with the use of resilient bars.

A Floating Soundproof Ceiling

By using resilient bars in making a soundproof ceiling, you will actually be constructing a new ceiling of plaster board under, or in place of, the existing one. The plaster board and resilient bars should be used with some other sound deadening material like acoustic membrane, acoustic mineral wool, or soundproofing mats.

You can remove the current ceiling and fill in the open space with acoustic wool, and attach the resilient bars so that they are perpendicular to the old ceiling’s joists. Place one layer of plaster board against the bars, fasten it with screws, and layer it with the soundproofing mats or membrane. Then attach the second layer of plasterboard.

To seal you soundproof ceiling, you’ll have to make sure that a 5mm gap remains between the plasterboard and the adjoining walls, and seal the gap with acoustic sealant so that it becomes airtight, and the soundproof ceiling ‘floats.’

A Dropped Soundproof Ceiling

If you’ve decided to simply ‘drop’ your soundproof ceiling from the existing one, attach battens perpendicular to the ceiling’s joists, fill the gaps between the battens with the acoustic mineral wool, and then duplicate the process for the floating soundproof ceiling.

Either of these techniques for constructing a soundproof ceiling

should effectively deaden the sounds of upstairs footsteps, but if they are more work than you care to undertake, you have the option of installing acoustic ceiling tiles, or spraying the ceiling with acoustic foam. They will deaden the sounds from above to a reasonable degree, although not as much as a newly-installed soundproof ceiling.

One of the most difficult things about installing a soundproof ceiling is that you will often have to work from below on scaffolding. It’s not merely uncomfortable; it’s definitely not the best way to make sure everything is securely attached. You can eliminate this problem if you construct your soundproof ceiling by working on the floor in the upstairs room.

By placing the soundproof material on the upper floor, you will deaden the upstairs sounds before the travel to the ceiling of the room beneath. This technique for creating a soundproof ceiling is especially effective in multi-story apartment and office buildings.

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He also said I could use “sound check” plasterboard, which is denser and heavier than normal plasterboard, so cuts down noise. It only comes in 3 met. lengths, and is about three dol…   Read more…

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Technorati Tags: plasterboard suppliers

Working on the ceiling is one of the most difficult tasks of any do-it-yourselfer, principally because work is done upside down. When you want to construct a soundproof ceiling, you first have to decide if you are up to the task. If not, you might want to shell out some dough to hire a contractor.

It may cost more than actually doing it yourself, but you’ll at least come up with the outcome that you had in mind.

Why it’s better to work from the floor above

One of the most common complaints from apartment tenants is the loud noise coming from the residents on the floor above them. This can be anything from loud music or the sound of shoes on the floor. If this is the case, it is recommended that you first work on the floor above before installing a false ceiling at your level.

The equipment for a soundproof ceiling

The equipment needed for this are the so-called flexible resilient bars which are used together with acoustic membranes or soundproofing mats, acoustic mineral wool or quilt, and plasterboard.

The resilient bars are the only genuine solution to the problem of noise from overhead and is much more effective than merely adding a layer of plasterboard to your ceiling. For a soundproof ceiling, the existing structure should not be attached to the new ceiling or should be isolated as far as possible from it.

First, remove the plasterboard and use mineral wool to fill in the cavity between the ceiling and the floor above. Next, fix the resilient bars to the battens or joists. You should then attach two layers of plasterboard, measuring 12.5 mm or thicker. For better performance, the seams in the first layer should be overlapped by the sheets of the second layer.

In addition, make sure the plasterboard’s edges are not touching the existing walls. Instead, the gap between the walls and the plasterboard should be filled with acoustic sealant.

For a higher-quality soundproof ceiling, dampen the plasterboard by placing a layer of acoustic membrane between the two plasterboard sheets. This adds up to 5-8 decibels to the soundproof ceiling’s overall performance as there is a considerable reduction in structural vibrations.

If you can’t perform this method due to restrictions on the type of ceiling you are working with, then the only way to work around this is to attach a layer of acoustic membrane on your ceiling, and screw on a plasterboard sheet. Make sure that the seams and the perimeter are well-sealed. This soundproof ceiling method cannot effectively reduce impact noise, but it can do something about airborne noise.

Creating an efficient soundproof ceiling largely depends on the type of materials used, the quality of your workmanship, and the method used. Again, if you think you can handle the job of creating a soundproof ceiling on your own, then by all means, go for it. Just follow to the letter the step-by-step directions on soundproof ceiling tutorials which can be found in many sites on the Web.

Knauf Drywall Wall plaster Plastering ceilings Dry lining Plaster …

Building design news Knauf Drywall Wall plaster Plastering ceilings Dry lining Plaster board 230909.   Read more…

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During construction, it is used as a type of internal lining board to help create strong, smooth, uniform looking walls and ceilings. Plasterboard is a preferred material for many home …   Read more…

OFFICE DEPOT NAME TAG COMMERCIAL: Plastering Jobs Need Careful …

The same is true for a plastering joba new plasterboard ceiling is connected. In general, for those jobs that you have to pay 20% in advance and the remainder for the mechanic, after the plaste…   Read more…

Technorati Tags: plasterboard repair

If you are looking for somebody to do a Plastering job for you, just browse through the net and you will find plenty of offers. Whether you want to plaster a ceiling, make a new ceiling or a plaster board ceiling, you can choose the job offer that meets your needs. And sometimes if the exact job that you are looking for is not available, just ask for a quote on one of the websites, and they will get back to you with the details.

It is often difficult to judge the plastering job that is required for your wall or ceiling. Sometimes one wastes a lot of time looking through websites and directories and searching for the suitable person and the lowest price. It is better to submit a brief job specification on any of the websites and wait till they contact you with the quote.

For this you need to measure the area that you need to plaster. Specify also whether it is a wall or a ceiling. And the location of the room is also important. Whether it is for your home or office, mention whether it is the bathroom, garden, kitchen, extension, loft or driveway.

For a new plaster board ceiling you can get plaster to fit a new 12.5 mm plaster board over your existing ceiling. The finishing plaster will then be fitted with a 3 mm skim to plaster the ceiling. The price that is quoted is for the complete plastering job, which includes the plaster board to cover your ceiling, the plaster as well as the labor.

The same applies to a plastering job which involves a new plaster board ceiling. Normally for such jobs you have to pay 20% in advance and the rest to the fitter after he completes the plastering job for you.

Plastering jobs are not difficult for a plasterer to find, because it requires special skills and plastering jobs are required all the time. Sometimes the repairs are general and the plasterers are paid by the hour.

Plastering jobs involve mixing and applying different kinds of plaster in order to provide a finish to internal surfaces. These surfaces could be walls, floors or ceilings. For external walls plastering is done with a mixture of sand and cement, pebble-dash or stone-effect materials.

The range of work for plastering jobs could be for new-build housing or commercial developments, small scale domestic extensions or for restoration and repair of existing buildings. Let us look at the two basic types of plastering jobs: solid plastering and fibrous plastering.

During solid plastering wet finishes are applied to walls, ceilings and floors. Sometimes protective coverings are put, such as pebble-dashing on external walls. A range of hand tools and spraying equipment are used for this kind of plastering.

Fibrous plastering is more ornamental like making ceiling roses, cornices, ornamental columns and architraves. A mixture of plaster and short fibers is made for this kind of plastering. An architect, an artist or an interior designer makes the drawings and these are followed using tools like moulds and casts. Fibrous makers and fibrous fixers are employed by some firms.

Drylining is a term now often associated with plastering jobs. This term describes the construction of internal partitions using plasterboard or wallboard. A timber or metal frame which is ready for decorating is made, and on it wall and floor partitions are constructed by fastening boards together. When the project is very large, plasterers can then work on the job in teams in different sections of the wall at the same time.

Trying to hang 42" LCD on plasterboard wall – AVForums.com

Hello everyone! im new and not very good with all this so please excuse me! Basically, i have just bought a new lcd tv 42" its 20.5kg in weight.   Read more…

Best way to fasten shelves, curtain rails etc to insulated …

General: Best way to fasten shelves, curtain rails etc to insulated plasterboard walls? Bottom of Page. 1 to 11 of 11. CommentAuthorRobinB; CommentTimeNov 13th 2009. Anyone had practical experi…   Read more…

Anyone seen this done before?

Why use battens at all and not just stick insulated plasterboard on the wall and do away with the thermal bridges and VCL in one go? looks like they are solving a problem they have creat…   Read more…

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