Skimming is the process by which a thin layer of plaster is applied to a wall or ceiling to provide a smooth surface. Often referred to as board finish, the amount need for a particular job can be calculated based on using 10kg to every 5 sq meters. This assumes plaster is applied to a thickness of approximately 3mm. It’s worth noting that plaster should be stored in a dry place, but it does have a minimum shelf life, so bulk buying and storage might not be such a good idea unless you are using it in large and frequent amounts.

As you set about your next plastering job it’s well worth cleaning the plasterboards first. Dust and dirt will create problems so a little time spent in preparation will pay dividends later. If at all possible empty the room or at the very least cover anything of value. Not only do you want to avoid damage to furniture etc, but you also want to be able to move around the room unimpeded, particularly if you’re working on a ceiling which means you need the whole floor space to move around in.

When it comes to corners, they need to be properly prepared. External corners are best trimmed with angle beads. Angle beads are galvanized strips, which are simply nailed, with galvanised nails, to the boards. So long as you’ve taken time to square them up with a spirit level, the result is a nice sharp cover. The angle beads can be cut with a small hacksaw or tin snips but it’s a good idea to use protective gloves, as the edges can be fairly sharp.

Plaster should be mixed using equal amounts of plaster to water, taking time to mix until a smooth consistency is achieved. A hand whisk can be helpful here. Once the plaster is ready wet the spot board and empty the plaster onto it. A spot board by the way, is just a board of around a meter sq; useful for catching the plaster as you work.

A small quantity of plaster should be loaded onto the hawk. Depending on your preference (right or left handed) hold at around chest height and push a measured amount of plaster onto the surface with the float. It takes practice, but you are aiming for a repetitive action which is smooth and fluid. For walls it’s best to work up from the floor spreading a thin layer and then back down again from the ceiling to smooth out the plaster. A second coat can be applied as the first begin to dry a little. This coat should fill in any ridges. A clean float should be used to smooth the whole job. As the plaster starts to harden, again the float can be used as if to polish the surface. Water can be applied with a brush to help when polishing with the float and naturally fill out the smallest of holes.

Asbestos In The Workplace – We Reveal The Level Of Danger That …

Asbestos was used in the construction of a great many building materials, from ceiling tiles to plasterboard substitute, for this reason it can be found just about anywhere. Asbestos<…   Read more…

Can anyone tell me when plasterboard became commonly used in the UK?

We are trying to establish the likelyhood of a ceiling being asbestos whilst we wait the proper checks. Ceilings made of board and put up in the 1950’s. Any help, or directions to look in w…   Read more…

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asbestos tile manufacturing manufacture of textiles, asbestos the trades of shipbuilding insulation work in the construction of. Electricians plasterers pipe fitters railroad workers bui…   Read more…

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If you’ve ever tried to fit plasterboard then you will know that one of the most difficult parts is when you have to make the cuts around sockets and things. This is where it all goes wrong for many people and they are left with huge big holes that later become a nightmare to fill and make good.

Wouldn’t it be nice if just for once, you could make one cut and have it fit perfectly first time. Well now you can because I promise you it’s such a doodle when you know how.

I’m about to give you a little tip that will save all the rigmarole and make the job a so much easier. All you need to do is hold your piece of plasterboard up to the wall in the place that you want to put it, then where your sockets, or rather back boxes are (these are the metal boxes that the plastic socket cover with the plug fittings screws into), give the board a good tap and you will make an mark on the back of the plasterboard where the cut needs to be. Simply cut it out with a sharp blade and when you fit the plasterboard permanently in place, you should find that it fits accurately around the socket.

Another way of doing this is also leading the front of the back box around the edges with a pencil before pressing the board up it to get the impression in the right place. Believe it or not, I’ve even known people to mark the socket with ‘tomato sauce’ to make the impression onto the board. Now tomato sauce maybe taking matters a little bit far, but I guess the idea here is to just get that impression on the plasterboard where the precise cut needs to be.

Next time you’re taking on a project where you need to fit plasterboard, be sure to try this simple but very effective and time saving method. Please always be cautious and careful when working around any electrical sockets. Where possible, you should always isolate the sockets power supply to ensure complete safety. If in doubt, consult a qualified electrician to do this for you.

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What sort of fixings should I use on plasterboard? My walls plasterboard with a cavity behind before the brickwork, and I want to mount my rear.   Read more…

Sorting the Shower Screen (and the curtain pole, towel rail, loo …

Unfortunately we don’t live in an ideal world, but there are a number of fixings specially designed for fixing to surfaces such as plasterboard, of various strength and qualit…   Read more…

Can a stud wall take 40kgs? – AVForums.com

I would obviously mount the back plate onto the studs again, but this time I would used some different fixings. My plan is to secure the plate to the plasterboard using some standard …   Read more…

Technorati Tags: plasterboard sizes

The plasterboard in many Australian homes harbours imperfections that can cause major problems for homeowners down the line. That’s why it’s so vital to have a professional inspect the premises before signing a contract to buy a home.

The Basics Of Plasterboard -

Plasterboard is used in a variety of buildings, including homes, shops, offices, factories, schools and many other places. During construction, it is used as a type of internal lining board to help create strong, smooth, uniform looking walls and ceilings. Generally builders prefer using plasterboards in houses as its surface can be easily decorated using either paint or wallpaper. Most houses use plasterboard to some degree; unfortunately, this material can also harbour many unpleasant problems. If you’re buying a new home and are unsure of whether or not plasterboard is involved – and whether or not the plasterboard that’s there is of sound quality – you need the experts to take a look.

The Problem With Plasterboard -

Cracks are one of the biggest problems that occur with plasterboard. When cracks appear in plasterboard, they typically occur wherever there is a change in direction; hallways and ceilings in particular are common areas for cracks in plasterboard. Gypsum wallboard is one of the most commonly used varieties of plasterboard, and changes in temperature and/or moisture can cause stress and movement within it. That stress and movement can cause cracks; over time, those cracks can create a major headache for homeowners and can precipitate massive repairs.

Preventing Cracking -

Control joints are the preferred method for preventing cracking in plasterboard and gypsum wallboard. When used properly – and spaced apart appropriately, at approximately 9 metres from floor to ceiling – control joints can prevent cracks and plasterboard doesn’t pose a major problem. However, many houses weren’t built properly in the first place; sometimes, do-it-yourselfers fail to use control joints the right way, and plasterboard is compromised. A skilled building inspector can look at the walls and ceilings in any house and determine whether they have been put together properly. In addition to looking for existing cracks, then, an experienced inspector can look for the warning signs of trouble down the road and can help you avoid major headaches and expense later.

Revenue Accountant — Boral Plasterboard Philippines, Inc …

This role reporting directly to the Finance Manager, is accountable for creation and issuance of invoices and credit memos, updating customer files and reporting of revenues. Key tasks include billing…   Read more…

John Kennedy reaches the end of the road – Celtic Quick News

Thanks to Dave,Scott,(Nu-Ceil Services, Boral Plasterboard Perth)and to my brilliant workmate Jamie. Scot, Roz’s husband. By kano’s sister on November 15, 2009 4:20 PM. Have spoken to a…   Read more…

Gypsum and Anhydrite: Global Industry Markets and Outlook (10th …

… Production of phosphogypsum in Australia 65 7.4.4 Production of gypsum products in Australia 66 7.4.4.1 Boral Plasterboard Limited 67 7.4.4.2 CSR Gyproc 67 7.4.4.3 Lafarge 67 7.4.5 Exports …   Read more…

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Building methods are improving every year giving us better insulated buildings which in turn lead to lower energy costs. Sometimes it’s hard to see where we are making these improvements, but just compare a house that was built 40 years ago and compare it to a modern house built to the latest building regulations. One can see pretty quickly how much easier it is to heat a modern house and how much better a modern house will retain heat, why is this? The obvious and the main reason is that houses are now built with better insulation; new modern materials help retain heat in the building and therefore reduce energy costs. In combination with better insulation, new building methods have given us a more air tight structure. This is important because controlling the air circulation is just as important if not more important than insulation one’s house.

Think about it this way. Imagine a wall built to the highest possible standard in terms of installation, sound proofing and air tightness and in that wall we insert one window and one door. If you think about it you can begin to understand very quickly that once you interfere with a completely sealed wall there is a higher chance of air escaping and heat escaping. With this in mind it is hugely important how we install windows and doors in any building, making sure that the hold structure is of a uniform standard.

This is something that the building industry is only coming to terms with. There has been some resistance to introducing new recommended building regulations as they can increase the cost of the build, however as builders become familiar with new technologies and new building methods some of the costs can be absorbed by increase in the skill set of employees and becoming more efficient. No matter what the difficulties are it is important that the construction industry incorporates these new building methods in order to construct buildings to a higher standard and reduce our energy costs, improving our air tightness standards is a very efficient way to achieve this.

From the builders point of view extra care and attention needs to happen around all joins in a building. Joints are found around Windows, doors, corners, attics and wall plate level. Expanding foam can be used around Windows and doors and it also helps if these joints are taped giving them an all-around seal. Also there has been a move away from plastering especially in large apartment blocks this has been replaced by what’s referred to as tape jointing whereby plasterboard’s that have a groove joint are taped at each joint, sanded down and painted directly on to the plasterboard surface. Even though the plasterboard is of the recommended finish the joints don’t often last the test of time. Even though reinforced mesh is used with a sealant it can crack over time mainly because the sealant may not be applied uniformly. This can lead to leakage in the building.

As you can see while there is huge progress being made especially as I mentioned before when we compare a house built 40 years ago to the modern-day house, we still have a long way to go before we have synergy between the building authorities, contractors and suppliers of new building materials. One of the main drawbacks with introducing new building methods and new building materials is that it is often years before we can really determine if they work!

Can I Mount My Tv On A Plaster Board/False Wall – AVForums.com

Hi There My Question simmply is can i mount a large tv on a plaster board / false wall as i dont want to mount it then its simply break off. lol.   Read more…

WTF WAS THAT?: Boy Loses His Cool, Cries And Punches Wall Over …

Can’t believe some guys are macho’ing out about punching walls. The reason your hand went through it, is because you live in a US made hobo shack made of plaster board walls. The…   Read more…

Do I need noggings for a 3mtr plasterboard wall? – Renovate Forums

Hi guys! I am building a partition wall in my house. The wall will be 2800 long, and 2700 high. I will be using 64 mm Rondo metal stud (or similar.) and will be using 10 mm plasterboa…   Read more…

Technorati Tags: hole in plasterboard

PVA Bonding and Glue

PVA bonding is white in color and is usually supplied in large plastic containers; this is the same glue that we used as kids in school. PVA is often used when skimming over existing walls and it’s particularly useful when skimming over artex as it forms a water tight barrier and helps the plaster stick to the wall. Another benefit of PVA to plasterers is that it helps to prevent plaster from drying out too quickly. The problem with skimming over existing finishing plaster is that it soaks up water like a sponge and this makes the new plaster dry out straight away and start cracking. To overcome this problem PVA glue can be spread over the work surface first to slow the rate of water absorption and give the plaster much more time to work with the plaster once it’s on the wall.

Backing Plasters / Bonding Plasters

Backing plasters such as those called ‘browning’ or ‘bonding compound’ is usually used during building and renovation projects. Almost all newly built houses are dry lined with plasterboard rather than wet plastered using browning or bonding compound. This is because plasterboard possesses many different advantages over traditional backing plaster. Bonding plaster and particularly browning are what is know in the trade as ‘wet’ materials. If these finishes are used on walls it can take several months for them to dry out fully. Plastering a full wall with backing plaster is also a very skilled job and requires a skilled tradesman to carry it out properly. In comparison dry lining rooms with plasterboard can be done quickly and to acceptable standards by a competent DIY enthusiast. Browning plaster is a backing coat plaster; it is invariably a pink or grey colour. Browning is used on surfaces such as house bricks and breeze blocks, or building surfaces which are absorbent. Browing should be put on in quite thick layers of about 10mm. Browning usually takes around 2 hours to set. Bonding Compound is arguably better than browning. Bonding is usually best applied to non absorbent material such as hard faced bricks or treated surfaces that have been glued with PVA. Usually bonding is put on around 8mm in thickness. Bonding Compound usually takes around 2 hours to set.

Skimming / Finishing Plaster

Skimming plaster is some times put directly over either browning or bonding compound. But in todays building industry it is more commonly applied directly to plasterboard. There are multi finish versions of skimming plaster which are very popular as it is suitable for use on most internal surfaces. You can also get hold of plasterboard finish, as its name suggest, it is used for skimming over plasterboard and it not intended for use over bonding compound or browning. Skimming plaster is normally put on much more thinly and as a final coat. It is usually applied around 2mm thick.

One Coat Plaster

There are lots of different companies manufacturing one coat plaster. Such companies claim that this plaster will serve as a backing coat and finish coat all at the same time. Although allegedly these plasters are highly versatile, in our experience such plasters are best left alone. We believe that you are better off adopting the traditional backing coat / finishing coat approach.

Remember, as a general rule for all plasters – the drying time will depend on the ambient temperature of the room, finishing plaster needs to be polished with a trowel as soon as it has started to firm up to the touch. If you delay too long before trowelling it up the plaster will harden and then your only option is to sand down the walls!

Owner Builder Forum | Re: Installing 1300m2 of plasterboard

elchagie wrote: is this price for labor ? Sorry, no. It’s for supply only.   Read more…

Owner Builder Forum | Re: Installing 1300m2 of plasterboard

Also, do you think $5.5 m2 for walls and $6.23 for ceiling is a good price for gyprock?   Read more…

Owner Builder Forum | Re: Installing 1300m2 of plasterboard

gettingThere wrote: Totally worth getting a professional in if that’s the case. It would be a very gutsy decision to do it yourself. It is pretty hard to hide gyprock and there is some skill & tec…   Read more…

Technorati Tags: holes in plasterboard

The most important thing for all DIY tasks is a set of correct tools for plastering and plaster boarding. The vital and useful tools are a large flexible mixing bucket, a featheredge, a Plasterer’s Darby, a float and a hawk.

The bucket is essential for the mixing of plaster or dry wall adhesive. Take a bucket which is easy to clean, because clean tools are important if you want to do a plastering job. A featheredge can also be used as a Plasterers Darby and with it you can achieve straight plasterboard application.

Keep the plasterers float clean all the time. Go in for a stainless steel float, because the others rust if they are not looked after. The hawk is always used along with the float. The plaster is generally held on the hawk and then it is transferred to the wall or ceiling by using the float.

Mixing is a very important phase in a plastering job. With the help of a mixer drill the mixing plaster can be made easily, especially if the quantity is large. It is possible to do the mixing with a piece of wood as well, but the mixer will make it easier.

There are different types of plaster available, but basically there are two coats for each plastering job. First of all there is a backing coat which is browning or bonding plaster. Plasterboard is a better choice than backing plaster, especially if it is a DIY project. It is followed by the finishing plaster which is applied on top of the plasterboard. This is applied as a final coat.

It is important to remember that plaster is only suitable for internal use, when there is no damp. And the mixing is important, because the water has to be clean and cold and you should remember to add the plaster to the water and not the water to the plaster.

Plasterboard is the most common material used nowadays for finishing off internal walls and ceilings. It comes in various sizes and thicknesses and has many edge finishes. Use smaller sheets, though they are a bit expensive than the larger ones, but the larger ones become difficult to handle.

There are special tools to help you for cutting the plasterboard. If you want to use the direct bond method it is important to know the correct technique how to apply the plasterboard with that method. This method is often called the dot and dab method. Working with plasterboard for the ceiling is different than working for a wall.

Let us look at the final coat or the top coat of plaster. This is the most important coat and this coat of plaster is called a skim. Skimming requires practice, so go about it slowly and follow instructions carefully. Just follow certain basic rules like ensuring the smoothness of the surface, the cleanliness of your buckets and tools. Use two coats of finishing plaster instead of one and start off with a wall, which is a bit hidden in your house and gives you room to experiment.

There are some other jobs which need to be mentioned under DIY plastering. There are various types of plasters, and one of them is artexing. It is important to practice the artex patterns before experimenting on your wall. Take the easy patterns and learn also how to remove Artex or the textured patterns. Plaster moldings are often used for plastering jobs, but the fit should be right and it is better if it is done by professionals.

Class Action Lawsuit Against Chinese Drywall Endorsed by Federal Court

Claimants in the case allege Chinese drywall produced by Knauf Plasterboard (Tianjin) Company has led to problems such as home wiring corrosion and respiratory health issues. Thus far, a…   Read more…

PGS Real Estate | MLS | Attorney General Alerts Consumers to …

TALLAHASSEE, FL – November 23, 2009 – (RealEstateRama) — Attorney General Bill McCollum today issued a consumer advisory alerting homeowners whose homes contain allegedly defective Chinese dr…   Read more…

The Chinese Drywall Complaint Center Updates Its Info Warns …

The group says, last week in New Orleans, a federal judge made it possible for homeowners with a specific type of imported Chinese drywall called Knauf Plasterboard Tianjin, to potentia…   Read more…

Technorati Tags: tv on plasterboard

Building methods are improving every year giving us better insulated buildings which in turn lead to lower energy costs. Sometimes it’s hard to see where we are making these improvements, but just compare a house that was built 40 years ago and compare it to a modern house built to the latest building regulations. One can see pretty quickly how much easier it is to heat a modern house and how much better a modern house will retain heat, why is this? The obvious and the main reason is that houses are now built with better insulation; new modern materials help retain heat in the building and therefore reduce energy costs. In combination with better insulation, new building methods have given us a more air tight structure. This is important because controlling the air circulation is just as important if not more important than insulation one’s house.

Think about it this way. Imagine a wall built to the highest possible standard in terms of installation, sound proofing and air tightness and in that wall we insert one window and one door. If you think about it you can begin to understand very quickly that once you interfere with a completely sealed wall there is a higher chance of air escaping and heat escaping. With this in mind it is hugely important how we install windows and doors in any building, making sure that the hold structure is of a uniform standard.

This is something that the building industry is only coming to terms with. There has been some resistance to introducing new recommended building regulations as they can increase the cost of the build, however as builders become familiar with new technologies and new building methods some of the costs can be absorbed by increase in the skill set of employees and becoming more efficient. No matter what the difficulties are it is important that the construction industry incorporates these new building methods in order to construct buildings to a higher standard and reduce our energy costs, improving our air tightness standards is a very efficient way to achieve this.

From the builders point of view extra care and attention needs to happen around all joins in a building. Joints are found around Windows, doors, corners, attics and wall plate level. Expanding foam can be used around Windows and doors and it also helps if these joints are taped giving them an all-around seal. Also there has been a move away from plastering especially in large apartment blocks this has been replaced by what’s referred to as tape jointing whereby plasterboard’s that have a groove joint are taped at each joint, sanded down and painted directly on to the plasterboard surface. Even though the plasterboard is of the recommended finish the joints don’t often last the test of time. Even though reinforced mesh is used with a sealant it can crack over time mainly because the sealant may not be applied uniformly. This can lead to leakage in the building.

As you can see while there is huge progress being made especially as I mentioned before when we compare a house built 40 years ago to the modern-day house, we still have a long way to go before we have synergy between the building authorities, contractors and suppliers of new building materials. One of the main drawbacks with introducing new building methods and new building materials is that it is often years before we can really determine if they work!

Screwing plasterboard

I now need to install 12.5mm plasterboard onto the same wall, to level up with the aquapanel for tiling. I have plugged and screwed the Aquapanel using the Aquapanel screws. My question …   Read more…

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Fermacell 8 x 4’s Anyone used them??

My understanding is the tapered edged boards are specifically manufactured for the UK market to compete with plasterboard installation. CommentAuthorJulian; CommentTimeOct 9th 2009. Good post P…   Read more…

Technorati Tags: knauf tianjin plasterboard

If you are attempting to create a soundproof ceiling, your approach to the task will depend on whether you are working in a single story building, with no rooms above the ceiling on which you are working, or on an upstairs room. If you are working on a ceiling with a room above it, you can consider creating a soundproof ceiling with the use of resilient bars.

A Floating Soundproof Ceiling

By using resilient bars in making a soundproof ceiling, you will actually be constructing a new ceiling of plaster board under, or in place of, the existing one. The plaster board and resilient bars should be used with some other sound deadening material like acoustic membrane, acoustic mineral wool, or soundproofing mats.

You can remove the current ceiling and fill in the open space with acoustic wool, and attach the resilient bars so that they are perpendicular to the old ceiling’s joists. Place one layer of plaster board against the bars, fasten it with screws, and layer it with the soundproofing mats or membrane. Then attach the second layer of plasterboard.

To seal you soundproof ceiling, you’ll have to make sure that a 5mm gap remains between the plasterboard and the adjoining walls, and seal the gap with acoustic sealant so that it becomes airtight, and the soundproof ceiling ‘floats.’

A Dropped Soundproof Ceiling

If you’ve decided to simply ‘drop’ your soundproof ceiling from the existing one, attach battens perpendicular to the ceiling’s joists, fill the gaps between the battens with the acoustic mineral wool, and then duplicate the process for the floating soundproof ceiling.

Either of these techniques for constructing a soundproof ceiling

should effectively deaden the sounds of upstairs footsteps, but if they are more work than you care to undertake, you have the option of installing acoustic ceiling tiles, or spraying the ceiling with acoustic foam. They will deaden the sounds from above to a reasonable degree, although not as much as a newly-installed soundproof ceiling.

One of the most difficult things about installing a soundproof ceiling is that you will often have to work from below on scaffolding. It’s not merely uncomfortable; it’s definitely not the best way to make sure everything is securely attached. You can eliminate this problem if you construct your soundproof ceiling by working on the floor in the upstairs room.

By placing the soundproof material on the upper floor, you will deaden the upstairs sounds before the travel to the ceiling of the room beneath. This technique for creating a soundproof ceiling is especially effective in multi-story apartment and office buildings.

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He also said I could use “sound check” plasterboard, which is denser and heavier than normal plasterboard, so cuts down noise. It only comes in 3 met. lengths, and is about three dol…   Read more…

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Technorati Tags: plasterboard suppliers

Working on the ceiling is one of the most difficult tasks of any do-it-yourselfer, principally because work is done upside down. When you want to construct a soundproof ceiling, you first have to decide if you are up to the task. If not, you might want to shell out some dough to hire a contractor.

It may cost more than actually doing it yourself, but you’ll at least come up with the outcome that you had in mind.

Why it’s better to work from the floor above

One of the most common complaints from apartment tenants is the loud noise coming from the residents on the floor above them. This can be anything from loud music or the sound of shoes on the floor. If this is the case, it is recommended that you first work on the floor above before installing a false ceiling at your level.

The equipment for a soundproof ceiling

The equipment needed for this are the so-called flexible resilient bars which are used together with acoustic membranes or soundproofing mats, acoustic mineral wool or quilt, and plasterboard.

The resilient bars are the only genuine solution to the problem of noise from overhead and is much more effective than merely adding a layer of plasterboard to your ceiling. For a soundproof ceiling, the existing structure should not be attached to the new ceiling or should be isolated as far as possible from it.

First, remove the plasterboard and use mineral wool to fill in the cavity between the ceiling and the floor above. Next, fix the resilient bars to the battens or joists. You should then attach two layers of plasterboard, measuring 12.5 mm or thicker. For better performance, the seams in the first layer should be overlapped by the sheets of the second layer.

In addition, make sure the plasterboard’s edges are not touching the existing walls. Instead, the gap between the walls and the plasterboard should be filled with acoustic sealant.

For a higher-quality soundproof ceiling, dampen the plasterboard by placing a layer of acoustic membrane between the two plasterboard sheets. This adds up to 5-8 decibels to the soundproof ceiling’s overall performance as there is a considerable reduction in structural vibrations.

If you can’t perform this method due to restrictions on the type of ceiling you are working with, then the only way to work around this is to attach a layer of acoustic membrane on your ceiling, and screw on a plasterboard sheet. Make sure that the seams and the perimeter are well-sealed. This soundproof ceiling method cannot effectively reduce impact noise, but it can do something about airborne noise.

Creating an efficient soundproof ceiling largely depends on the type of materials used, the quality of your workmanship, and the method used. Again, if you think you can handle the job of creating a soundproof ceiling on your own, then by all means, go for it. Just follow to the letter the step-by-step directions on soundproof ceiling tutorials which can be found in many sites on the Web.

Knauf Drywall Wall plaster Plastering ceilings Dry lining Plaster …

Building design news Knauf Drywall Wall plaster Plastering ceilings Dry lining Plaster board 230909.   Read more…

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During construction, it is used as a type of internal lining board to help create strong, smooth, uniform looking walls and ceilings. Plasterboard is a preferred material for many home …   Read more…

OFFICE DEPOT NAME TAG COMMERCIAL: Plastering Jobs Need Careful …

The same is true for a plastering joba new plasterboard ceiling is connected. In general, for those jobs that you have to pay 20% in advance and the remainder for the mechanic, after the plaste…   Read more…

Technorati Tags: plasterboard repair

If you are looking for somebody to do a Plastering job for you, just browse through the net and you will find plenty of offers. Whether you want to plaster a ceiling, make a new ceiling or a plaster board ceiling, you can choose the job offer that meets your needs. And sometimes if the exact job that you are looking for is not available, just ask for a quote on one of the websites, and they will get back to you with the details.

It is often difficult to judge the plastering job that is required for your wall or ceiling. Sometimes one wastes a lot of time looking through websites and directories and searching for the suitable person and the lowest price. It is better to submit a brief job specification on any of the websites and wait till they contact you with the quote.

For this you need to measure the area that you need to plaster. Specify also whether it is a wall or a ceiling. And the location of the room is also important. Whether it is for your home or office, mention whether it is the bathroom, garden, kitchen, extension, loft or driveway.

For a new plaster board ceiling you can get plaster to fit a new 12.5 mm plaster board over your existing ceiling. The finishing plaster will then be fitted with a 3 mm skim to plaster the ceiling. The price that is quoted is for the complete plastering job, which includes the plaster board to cover your ceiling, the plaster as well as the labor.

The same applies to a plastering job which involves a new plaster board ceiling. Normally for such jobs you have to pay 20% in advance and the rest to the fitter after he completes the plastering job for you.

Plastering jobs are not difficult for a plasterer to find, because it requires special skills and plastering jobs are required all the time. Sometimes the repairs are general and the plasterers are paid by the hour.

Plastering jobs involve mixing and applying different kinds of plaster in order to provide a finish to internal surfaces. These surfaces could be walls, floors or ceilings. For external walls plastering is done with a mixture of sand and cement, pebble-dash or stone-effect materials.

The range of work for plastering jobs could be for new-build housing or commercial developments, small scale domestic extensions or for restoration and repair of existing buildings. Let us look at the two basic types of plastering jobs: solid plastering and fibrous plastering.

During solid plastering wet finishes are applied to walls, ceilings and floors. Sometimes protective coverings are put, such as pebble-dashing on external walls. A range of hand tools and spraying equipment are used for this kind of plastering.

Fibrous plastering is more ornamental like making ceiling roses, cornices, ornamental columns and architraves. A mixture of plaster and short fibers is made for this kind of plastering. An architect, an artist or an interior designer makes the drawings and these are followed using tools like moulds and casts. Fibrous makers and fibrous fixers are employed by some firms.

Drylining is a term now often associated with plastering jobs. This term describes the construction of internal partitions using plasterboard or wallboard. A timber or metal frame which is ready for decorating is made, and on it wall and floor partitions are constructed by fastening boards together. When the project is very large, plasterers can then work on the job in teams in different sections of the wall at the same time.

Trying to hang 42" LCD on plasterboard wall – AVForums.com

Hello everyone! im new and not very good with all this so please excuse me! Basically, i have just bought a new lcd tv 42" its 20.5kg in weight.   Read more…

Best way to fasten shelves, curtain rails etc to insulated …

General: Best way to fasten shelves, curtain rails etc to insulated plasterboard walls? Bottom of Page. 1 to 11 of 11. CommentAuthorRobinB; CommentTimeNov 13th 2009. Anyone had practical experi…   Read more…

Anyone seen this done before?

Why use battens at all and not just stick insulated plasterboard on the wall and do away with the thermal bridges and VCL in one go? looks like they are solving a problem they have creat…   Read more…

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When you are installing fixings on your walls, the most important thing that you need to know before you put in those fixings is the kind of wall that you exactly have. It is essential for you to have knowledge of this because it will affect how you are going to drill the hole and insert your screws, as well as your wall plugs and bolts.

If your internal walls are created through stud walling, it may be a challenge for you to install your fixings. Stud walling – either the modern plasterboard type or the old-fashioned lath and plaster – are traditionally not made for carrying loads. Drilling holes in these walls or even driving a nail through them in a haphasard manner will result in cracks on the plaster coating of the wall. If you are careless about the whole thing, you will not just end up with a weak mounting, but your walls may also require a bit of work in repairs.

Understand Your Wall Before Sticking Fixings

As mentioned above, it is a challenge to put fixings into stud walling. Before you can do it, you need to understand the structure of your wall first so that you can be sure that your installation will be strong enough and will not damage the structure of your wall.

You see, stud walling refers to either the lath and plaster type of wall or the kind made of plasterboard. The studs are the vertical elements in the frames making up your walls. In lath and plaster walls, the laths are narrow strips of wood that are nailed horisontally on the studs. These laths are covered up with a plaster layer later on. With plasterboard, the laths are skipped and plasterboard sheets are simply cut up and nailed on the studs.

The Fixings Challenge: Locating the Studs

In order to make sure that your mounting upon a stud wall is stable, secure and will not damage your wall, it is very important that you drill your holes directly onto the stud itself. But before you do this, you need to find the studs first.

The easiest way to find these studs is to knock on your wall. In plasterboard walls, the difference in the sound is very easy to detect. The sound in the area directly on the studs is more solid, whilst the areas away from the stud produce more hollow sounds when knocked.

The same, however, cannot be said of lathe and plaster walls. The studs would be deeply hidden by both the lathe and the plaster layer, so you would need to use more elbow grease in finding the studs. The technique used by builders to find the studs is to drill tiny holes along the wall at one-inch intervals until they have found the stud. Once they have discovered the first stud, they would measure 16 inches from this first stud and then drill another hole to locate the second stud.

You should always be careful when drilling holes in your stud walling to install your fixings. Always make those holes on the studs. Otherwise, your fixings will not be secure and you will end up damaging your wall.

plasterboard installation benchmarks and examples

industry endorsed benchmarks for plasterboard.   Read more…

jbdave’s d&c: Wow, that baby’s come early – now it gets tough !

The plasterers have kicked off, installing battens and getting ready for the plasterboard installation. The electrician is changing a few things around that I wasn’t happy with, and the ins…   Read more…

ceiling insulation & plasterboard installation

hello everyone, it’s been awhile since we last updated as we have been busy plus the fact that when we do go by to have a look at progress, it’s after work & hence pretty dark for photos. howe…   Read more…

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Do you want to mount something on your wall using through bolts and you find out that your walls have a dry wall lining? Then you may be facing a monumental task before you, since it is very tricky to install fixings in dry lining walls.

The reason why it is hard to put in screws and bolts on walls with a dry lining is because the plasterboard making up the lining is only affixed onto the brickwork or the block work with adhesive dabbing. One wrong move and you will end up ruining the plasterboard with cracks and compromising the wall’s integrity.

So, you have your work cut out for you when you stick in screws on your dry lining walls. But it is definitely possible to get it done if you are willing to exert the effort to do so.

Understanding Your Dry Wall Before You Put In The Fixings

Dry walling is a very popular mode of building walls today. That is because there are many benefits that we can get from having dry wall linings in our interiors. Amongst these benefits are that drywalls are easier to build, easier to maintain, can muffle sounds, and can hide unsightly electrical wirings.

Structurally speaking, however, drywalls are quite delicate to work with post-construction. You cannot just poke into it using your power drill to install fixings because the dry wall lining essentially has a hollow space separating it from the brickwork of your wall where it is not glued on. Mounting stuff on the unsupported part of the wall will cause the wall to become deformed.

Putting Fixings in Dry Lining Walls

Given the complications involved in putting through bolts in walls with drywall linings, how do you go about it? The practical answer to this question is lined up as follows:

1.Mark out with a pencil where the holes for your screws will be drilled in. Make sure that these holes are located where the wall is not supported by any adhesive blobs.

2.Cut away at the plasterboard lining on the location where you will put in your screws, wall plugs and wall bolts. Be certain that you do not tear out any supporting adhesives on the wall as you cut away at it, and that space left out by the cut-out portion is neat and cleanly cut.

3.Create a batten or a spacer that fits that cut-out space perfectly. If this part is done well, you will create a seamless-looking space from the wall to the batten, as if you have not done any cutting at all.

4.Fit the batten into the empty, cut-out space. Afterwards, drill the hole where your fixings will be put into place. The hole should go right through the brickwork or block work of the wall and the screws should be long enough to fit right in. Remember to avoid the mortar joints so as not to compromise the integrity of your wall.

5.Mount whatever it is that you will be mounting on your wall using shorter fixings right onto the batten. Make sure that the through bolts are safe and secure.

Realty News Now | The Chinese Drywall Complaint Center Says Its …

The Chinese Drywall Complaint Center is saying,”The easiest way to check to see if you have this type of drywall is to go to your attic, and see if Knauf Plasterboard Tianjin is written on …   Read more…

Fixings for plasterboard? – AVForums.com

What sort of fixings should I use on plasterboard? My walls plasterboard with a cavity behind before the brickwork, and I want to mount my rear.   Read more…

Bonding or One Coat on Plasterboard

Hi everyone….. Just a quick question, I’ve had the bathroom boarded out with plasterboard and need to make even a few areas. I was going to put primer on the plasterboard all round…   Read more…

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With the modern trend for plastered walls painted with neutral and pastel colours coming back into fashion, there are a lot of artexed walls and ceilings, which require plastering over. Artex can be plastered over quite easily with a little bit of plastering skill and DIY know-how. This article will talk you through the important point to consider when plastering over artex. First of all you will need to make sure that there are no sections of artex that are loose or peeling off. If there is any of the existing artex peeling off or if there are any raised spots of artex you will need to remove these. The best way to remove the problem areas of artex, we have found is to use a floor scraper which is readily available in most DIY stores. Once all the raised high spots of plaster have been removed and the wall is relatively flat the areas to be plastered can be painted with a coat of PVA adhesive. PVA adhesive can be bought in large plastic containers from DIY shops or builder’s merchants. When applying the PVA you should first dilute the PVA using a 1 to 1 ratio with water. Mix the PVA and water together well using a suitable mixing tool. Once the PVA bonding solution is mixed properly you can then apply it to the walls or ceilings that you are plastering using a large brush. You can then leave the wall to dry, this usually only takes about an hour depending on the temperature in the room. The important thing is to make sure that you have covered the whole wall or ceiling properly because missed areas will mean that when they are plastered they will dry almost as soon as the plaster is applied to the wall – giving you very little working time. In fact the main reason for gluing the walls in the first place is to prevent the moisture in the finishing plaster from being absorbed straight into the wall. It is probably best to apply two coats of this PVA bonding solution because this will give a great seal to the wall or ceiling and will maximise your working time. The application of the bonding solution will not only help the plaster stick to the wall better, but it will also slow down moisture absorption from the plaster. This means that the plaster will stick to the wall better and it will give you more time to polish the surface and get a really nice finish. Now it’s time to mix the finishing plaster. Unless you’re working on a building site it’s a really good idea to put down lots of dust sheets because beginners have a tendency to get plaster everywhere! Try not to get any on your feet because as you move around you will spread excess plaster all over the place. You should mix the finishing plaster to a consistency resembling thick cream. An electric drill with a suitable paddle attachment will make this job a lot easier and will bring you better results. Once the plaster is mixed you apply the mix to the wall or ceiling using a hand board called a hawk and a decent plasterer’s trowel.Work with only a small amount of plaster on the hawk at any one time and scoop the plaster onto your trowel by pushing the plaster away from yourself. Once you have got the plaster onto the trowel, spread it evenly on the surface using long sweeping strokes. Don’t worry about getting the finish perfect at this point as it can be polished later. The most important thing is to make sure that this coat is reasonable level on the wall and doesn’t have any deep ridges or recesses. If you need to apply angle beads to external corners you will need to do this now. They can be fixed to the corners using either galvanised nails or just stuck using plaster. Angle beads help you to divide your plastering area into smaller, more manageable areas that can be dealt with independently. They give you a good edge to work to that finishes in line with the surface of the plaster. When the walls are painted they will not be visible. Once the plaster has dried so that it is firm to the touch (but not solid) you can start smoothing it out. Start smoothing where you started skimming. This process is called ‘trowel ling it up’. You will have to repeat this step over the surface two or three times to get it absolutely smooth. This is often referred to as giving the surface a trowel. In most cases its best to give the plaster 3 trowels for the best results. When the plaster is quite hard, you will want to flick some water onto the surface with a brush, this will give some extra time to work the surface and will allow you to get a ‘glass like’ finish. You can use a small soft brush to smooth out internal corners and smooth out the joins where the plastered surface joins onto any others. Make sure to clean your tools thoroughly whilst plastering and after the job is complete. It will save you hours of scraping and will prolong the life of your tools. It will also make you look more professional! Author: Stuart Mortimer Plasterer 4 Plastering is plastering company based in Yorkshire, UK who provide plasters in rotherham, plasterers in wakefield and plasterers in doncaster Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Stuart_Mortimer

Technorati Tags: fire resistance 12.5 mm fireline, fireproofing of plasterboard walls, plasterboard water protection

Having a garage attached to your property is very convenient. However, since we sometimes use the garage to perform not necessarily safe "experiments", and store various flammable materials in that area, the wall separating living quarters and the garage (including wall penetrations) must comply with some important rules. 1. Garage entry door to the house – it needs to be a solid door, wood or metal, with a proper weather stripping to create an air tight barrier between the garage and a living quarters (by law, the door should have at least 20 minute fire resistance rating – no hollow core, interior type doors like the ones that you normally install in bedrooms, closets, bathrooms, etc.). One more feature that I always recommend to my clients, and one that has been required on a new construction in many jurisdictions for several years already, is a self closing door. I don’t think that any local code enforcement division would force a homeowner to upgrade it if it is an older home, and an original (old) door, but I personally think that it makes sense to do such an update for your own sake. It is a very small investment (around $20.00), and all you need to do is replace a couple of regular door hinges with a spring type and a well adjusted door that will fully close automatically. It is for your own safety … I know that nothing bad ever happens to you, but just in case somebody forgets to turn off the car engine and leaves the door between the garage and the living quarters open … you won’t smell Carbon Monoxide … 2. The entry door from the garage into the house should be slightly elevated / higher than the garage floor surface. Many building codes require a step (or curb) between the house door and the garage floor. The step (min 4" recommended, but check your local code) prevents spilled gasoline vapors from entering the house and partially protects residents from carbon monoxide fumes. 3. Garage firewall / separation wall – it would again apply only to the house attached garages. The whole idea is to give you an extra hour of protection (separation wall between the garage and the house is currently required to provide one hour of fire resistance) from the fire that might start inside the garage. In order to achieve this rating, the wall needs to be sheathed with at least 5/8" drywall on each side (from the garage and home side), but check with your local code enforcement division … some jurisdictions will double that thickness. The separation wall should have no missing / damaged drywall sections, any penetration must be sealed (fire rated caulking would be perfect for small gaps around the pipes, air ducts, door frames, etc). If the wall is made out of brick, cinder block, stone, solid concrete, or any other non-flammable material, you’d just have to worry about penetrations. 4. A forced air heating system distributing air through the house can not have any registers (supply or return) in the garage – older homes often have them, which should be removed and the air duct opening sealed with sheet metal and fire rated caulking. Walls of the metal air ducts exposed in the garage area should be at least 26 ga. steel, no plastic or aluminum (thin wall or flexible type) vent hoses penetrating the separation walls are permitted – if there’s no other way to run those vent pipes, box it out and finish it with 5/8" drywall (Type X, taped). 5. An electrical box installed in the garage should not have another one connected to its back (back to back installation) and open inside the house. Also, some jurisdiction might not allow having an electrical panel installed inside the separation wall. 6. Attic access from the garage – keep it closed, no matter if this is a separation / fire wall or not (garage attic might not be connected to the house attic or house walls). Even if the garage attic is completely separated from the house attic or house walls don’t back-up to it, open access creates a vacuum. In case of fire inside the garage, this vacuum will suck it in into the attic. Typical garage attic access (at least in the majority of Chicago land homes including new construction) is a square drywall section, usually set on the four pieces of trim. Drywall is fine, but the trim neither provides a proper seal nor has a required fire rating … it would most likely burn within a few minutes, but I guess it is OK since everyone is accepting it … Another "gap" in the firewall is a pull-down type staircase to the attic – most of these have only a 1/4" paneling sheet installed and rarely provide proper seal along the opening – have your local code enforcement division comment on it if your garage attic opens to the house attic space. Many older homes do not comply with those requirements, and of course – I’d highly recommend to do all of the necessary improvements – it’s better to be safer … Author: Dariusz Rudnicki For more valuable information from Dariusz Rudnicki, on how to maintain your real estate property, correct most common problems and learn extremely important house selling tips (including step by step self-performed home inspection), please visit http://checkthishouse.com Dariusz is a licensed Illinois home inspector who has been in this business for ten years, crawling through the areas you’d newer expect that even exist in your house … just to let you now if everything is working properly Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dariusz_Rudnicki Using insulated plasterboard after installing chemical damp proof … Hi, I know there have been previous posts about insulated plasterboard. My question is this: I have a terraced house approx 120-130 years old with solid brick walls, no cavity. ALTERED ART AND A LOAD OF TAT: It’s nearly the summer holidays here! Theme I was given was ‘Shabby Chic& fef #39; and pink. …. Slide mailer. Slide mailer. This one was cut along the spine and then rejoined with a piece of plasterboard tape (m… Read more… Crowtree Cottages: Day 32 – plastered, pillared and plumbed The nice pink plasterboard around the chimney breast is special fire retardant board which will house our new woodburning stove. Outside things have moved on at pace as well. The new canopy run… Read more… Tiling on thermolite blocks – TilersForums.co.uk | Tile Forums … You can also get a product called Dry Fix. It’s made by the same company that make Pink Grip. I’ve not used it myself but you’re supposed to plaster the plasterboardRead more… in an ho…

Technorati Tags: fire rated plaster board, fire rated plaster boardsboards, plasterboard water protection

There are various types of plastering courses available in England. There are courses for beginners who want to pursue it as a hobby, or want to make it into a career. For tradesmen and builders there are advanced courses who want training for a career in plastering or even specialist plastering. The Gold trowel Plastering Organization offers specialized courses for certified Plastering courses or Advanced Skimming courses. There is a complete 10-day advanced certified Plastering course which includes written materials and videos before and after the course. The City Guilds has an entire training centre called Able Skills, where plastering is the main subject taught. There is a course to suit each person’s needs, whether you are a beginner or coming in to learn some advanced technology of plastering. The courses are planned with the needs of the students in mind. There are short courses and the timings are flexible. Courses are also held on weekends; as Able Skills is open all days of the week. Several qualification routes are also available, and there are trainers for every field. They are all experts in this field and have worked several years within the trade. Each one is a qualified teacher as well, so that they can conduct examinations and assess and internally verify the qualification courses. The students are provided with all the necessary materials and tools. At the training centre there is enough practical training given, and each student works on a portion of a wall or a ceiling. He learns practically everything that he has come to learn and once he leaves, he is in a position to tackle any situation back home. The Hawk and Trowel Plastering Centre based in Brighton also provides a professional training facility for plastering. Here too there are weekend courses and all the work is taught through a pure practical training program. The people who visit the courses are varied, from students to tradesmen, from home improvers to property developers. It is possible for anybody to learn the art of plastering. All that you have to do is attend a course and you might even change your career. You need not come in with any experience, only the will to learn and the plan to carry out successfully what you have learnt. For each trainer there are seven students, so that each student has the privilege to enjoy individual attention. The trainers are highly qualified with plenty of experience to their credit. The atmosphere in these short training programs is relaxed and friendly. All in all it makes a good learning environment. The topics that are covered in the training program are floor screeding, using the plasters , how to fix floating beads to reveals, how to fix different beads, the methods of boarding to bare wall areas, skimming and there are discussions on different backgrounds and types of finishes. The six-week Plastering course will attain you a National Qualification in Plastering. The correct choice and use of tools and electrical equipment is also taught, which will be of help to all, when they work on their own.

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